‘Aşure’, a sweet and savory treat made in Turkish household during the holy month of Ramadan.
Ever wonder what Noah and his family ate to celebrate the forty days and nights they spent on that ark waiting for the deluge to dissipate? The Turks seem to think it’s ‘aşure’ or Noah’s Pudding and it’s ubiquitous on every Turkish table during the break fasts of Ramadan. It is a delightful mixture of fruit, nuts, rice, grains, and beans and is usually made on the Day of Aşure. Its name is derived from the word ‘Ashura’, which means ‘tenth’ in Arabic. The Day of Aşure follows the Islamic holy calendar, and falls on the Tenth of Muharrem, during the first month of the Islamic calendar. “It doesn’t matter if you’re religious or secular, your mom will make aşure during Ramadan. That’s something important given the current political climate and the division between the religious and non-religious political parties” said Canan Evran, a Turk turned New Yorker whose aşure cravings have her busing over to the mom and pop Turkish joints in New Jersey every year. Yes, it’s schlepping to New Jersey good.
Aşure, oldest dessert in the world
Turkish legend has it that the first version of aşure was concocted by Noah himself. Having spent several weeks on the ark, waters began to recede and as food stocks dwindled, Noah decided to get creative in the kitchen. He threw bits of everything he had left on the ark into one pot and created his namesake dish. What he got was a delicious pudding that kept him and his passengers well-fed after the ark finally rested on Mount Ararat in eastern Turkey. It can be said that aşure is the oldest dessert in the world and is enjoyed not only in Turkey but in the neighboring countries as well. Christian and Jewish cultures share a similar version of this dessert under a variety of names.
Aşure is traditionally made from a delicious mix of seven (7) main ingredients: wheat, rice, beans, chickpeas, sugar, dried fruit, and nuts. Every Turkish family usually has its own recipe but one thing that is never present in the dish is animal products (would seem counterproductive to Noah’s mission, eh?). Yes, ‘aşure’ is vegan! “My mom always put in sweet American corn she would buy in cans from California on her trips to America. That’s not very Turkish but it was the way I ate it growing up” says Aysu Erensu, a Turkish mom raised on aşure who now uses her mother’s recipe to ensure hers stands out amongst the rest. But don’t be fooled, not all aşure is created equal; the market is rife with the dessert made from packets filled with sugar and highly processed gunk.
One of the many types of packaged aşure on the market
Aşure is also a symbol of diversity, friendship, and unity. When someone makes aşure during Ramadan, it's tradition to distribute bowls of it to friends and family as a sign of ‘bereket’ or good fortune and prosperity. Although made during Ramadan, this is not a dessert only for practicing Muslims. You can find aşure everywhere during that time; in homes, shops, hotels, and being enjoyed by everyone. Since it is so versatile and basically a cupboard cleaner, you can substitute the ingredients with pretty much anything else you have in your pantry. Next time Ramadan rolls around and you want to want to enjoy a bit of Islamic history with your friends, make some aşure!
RECIPE
INGREDIENTS:
1/2 cup uncooked pearl barley
1 tablespoon rice
4 cups water
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup canned chickpeas
1/2 cup canned kidney beans
1/4 cup raisins
1/4 cup dried apricots, chopped
1/4 cup dried figs, chopped
1 tablespoon rose water
3 tablespoons chopped almonds
3 tablespoons chopped pistachios
3 tablespoons pomegranate seeds
DIRECTIONS:
Step 1: Place the barley and rice in a medium bowl and cover with water. Cover and soak overnight. Drain.
Step 2: Place barley mixture, 4 cups water, and salt in a large pot and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce, and simmer for 25 minutes. Remove from heat and drain over a bowl, reserving 2 1/4 cups liquid.
Step 3: Place 1 1/2 cups barley mixture and 1/4 cup reserved liquid in a food processor and make into a puree. Return pureed mixture to the pot and add remaining barley mixture, remaining 2 cups reserved liquid, sugar, and rest of the 5 ingredients, stirring along the way. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 30 minutes.
Step 4: Remove from heat; stir in rose water, and sprinkle with nuts and pomegranate seeds.
NUTRITION:
Calories Per Serving: 329
Protein: 9.9 Grams
Fat: 6 Grams
Carbohydrates: 62.6 Grams
Fiber: 6.6 Grams